The Louis Vuitton S/S ’14 show in Paris this year was undoubtedly the most spectacular of the season. As the last show created for the fashion house by Marc Jacobs, the extravagant display included all the highlights of the designer’s previous catwalk shows: the horse carousel, the fountain and the escalators were all there to remind us of how fruitful this 16-year-long relationship was. However, this time everything was black. From the stage props to every piece of clothing (save for the occasional mid-wash boyfriend denim), no other colour was showcased. Models walked solemnly with highly ornate, 5-foot-tall feather headpieces that echoed Native American themes, a look that was mirrored in the movement of the fountain water. Each garment was rich in details, with micro nets, polka dots, feathers, sequins and diamantes juxtaposed to create layers.
The predominant decade evoked was the 1920s, with tunic dresses, crew neck and demure shapes, with a nod to the Victoriana trend in the white, severe hair and make up. The whole show lent flashbacks to a derelict-yet-opulent, coal-soaked Dickensian scenery, which was strangely but perfectly offset by eighties-inspired pieces such as short, boxy blazers, circus leotards, tough boots and biker jackets. It is sad to see such a talent go, but it is time to see Marc Jacobs focus on his own brilliant lines and make room for his replacement, former Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière. Those are some big shoes to fill.